Big surf at Cronulla

[khiemtran]

Well, I managed to stand up today, although I still fell off far more often than I stayed up. As you can see from the photo above, the surf was pretty big, so we stuck to the broken waves today. It was an amazing feeling to stand chest deep in a swirling sea of foam, with the morning sea making it shine like snow, while in front of us, we could watch the surf breaking like a giant wall with the expert surfers flashing in and out like ocean spirits.

Comments

[asakiyume.livejournal.com]

I'll **BET** it was an amazing feeling! You and the ocean spirits! Congratulations on managing to stand!

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

Like being in another world is the best way to describe it. Everything is different in this world, even though you're barely fifty metres from shore. The ground moves beneath you, the sea moves around you. The shore looks different because you're viewing it from a different angle. And surfers look different when you see them from behind, because you generally can't see the board if they're riding away from you, so it looks like they're standing on the foam itself. Even the sky looks different when viewed through the rainbow of spray behind the crest of a wave.

[asakiyume.livejournal.com]

Now I really, really ( x 10 to the nth power) want to learn to surf.

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

I think if you like skateboarding, then you'd love surfing. The principles are just the same (once you stand up), except the sea is always moving and playfully trying to kill you.

[asakiyume.livejournal.com]

and playfully trying to kill you.

Gotta love the sea!!

[puddleshark.livejournal.com]

Oh, that is fabulous! A glimpse of another, magical world!

Thank you.

Good luck on the remaining upright!

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

Thanks! Staying upright actually feels quite natural once you're in a good position, but getting into that position reliably is quite difficult at the moment. Although one guy who is a week ahead of me seemed to be getting it all the time this week, so maybe next week it will start to click...