Aug. 8th, 2015

DSCN4728

Well, I managed to stand up today, although I still fell off far more often than I stayed up. As you can see from the photo above, the surf was pretty big, so we stuck to the broken waves today. It was an amazing feeling to stand chest deep in a swirling sea of foam, with the morning sea making it shine like snow, while in front of us, we could watch the surf breaking like a giant wall with the expert surfers flashing in and out like ocean spirits.

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khiemtran

August 2021

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