Surfing update...

[khiemtran]

Last week's milestone was riding my first "green" (unbroken) wave, albeit with the help of a push from the instructor (the equivalent of an adult giving a child a push to help them learn to ride a bicycle). This week, it was back to the "white" (broken) waves, but the milestone was probably more important. I understand now, not only what a good body position feels like, but also exactly where I need to put my feet to get there.

This week's session started well, with a few good rides on broken waves, but I missed the next couple and the instructor told me I was standing too far forward. Naturally, I overcorrected, and missed the next three until he told me to move my weight a bit further forward agin. At last I put my foot in exactly the right place, got my centre of gravity a lot lower than I normally do, and suddenly I was flying.

The great thing was that, from that point on, whenever I was trying to "pop" up to the upright position, I knew exactly where on the board to put my front foot to find the sweet spot. Furthermore, I knew that, at as long as my feet where in that place, all I had to to do to recover my stability was to get my weight lower.

Of course, knowing where to put my feet didn't mean I could do it every time. But at least now I knew exactly where to aim for, and by the end of the session, I was able to shuffle forwards and backwards and move my weight around to try to correct my balance after I had got it wrong.

I won't be able to go again for two weeks, so the trick now will just be to remember how to do the next time I go...

Comments

[green-knight.livejournal.com]

Thanks for sharing - and congratulations on finding the sweet spot!

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

Thanks! I just hope I can remember what it feels like it two weeks time.

[asakiyume.livejournal.com]

One small thing I love about your learning first to sail and now to surf is learning all the lingo--like about the green and white waves.

That flying feeling--I can just imagine the terror and delight and exhilaration.

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

Funnily enough, there isn't any terror - you're so much more stable once you're up that's more equal parts exhilaration and relief. The terror tends to come when you're heading back out again afterwards, when you have to fight your way back over the waves and you spot one about to break on you...

[mnfaure.livejournal.com]

Having achieved the needed stance--and the ability to move around a bit--I bet you'll find the sweet spot pretty quickly next time. :D I hope you will, anyhow.

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

Yes, I hope so. I'm getting my body weight a lot lower now too, so I'm actually starting to look like a surfer....

[mnfaure.livejournal.com]

I find the same thing about a lower center of gravity is true when I do slacklining. Everyone who knows how to do a thing well makes that thing look simple and effortless. Only when you try it yourself do you discover all the little adjustments it takes in body and mind to even make a passing go at it.