Mt Kinabalu (Day One)

[khiemtran]

So, we're finally approaching Mt Kinabalu, at 4095 metres, the highest mountain in Malaysia.

We're come here by bus from Kota Kinabalu (literally "Kinabalu City"), otherwise known as "KK". The mountain's profile is so distinctive, it even features on that city's flag.



The intrepid party ready to depart. Don't be fooled by those smiles. Our starting point, at Timpohon Gate, is already at 1866 metres and we've just come up from sea level. We're going to be tested almost from the moment we start. (That's me on the left, by the way.)



"No trespassing or we will make you dance..."



There's something just a bit wrong with the air up here... Normal air is supposed to keep you going for more than a few steps.



There are supposedly Maragang or Red Leaf Monkeys around, but our guide, Maikin, tells us we are unlikely to see them. We do see these squirrels at nearly every rest hut though.



The route ahead. The rest huts (pondoks) are spaced so they are just under a kilometre apart. Which it will be at least an hour between them for us...



That's Maikin at the back. (The one who is not out of breath...)



As we head up, the path and the surrounding ecosystem keep changing.



Here we're surrounded by tree ferns.



And Hsiu Lin's glasses have frosted up with the sudden change in humidity.



Onwards and upwards...



The path can be dangerously slippery at times, but we were lucky this section was dry on the way up (it wasn't on the way down).



Lots to see and photograph at each of our rest stops.



Lunchtime! Fried chicken, a hard boiled egg, a sandwich and an apple.



The path changes again. You'll notice the vegetation is also getting shorter as we get higher up.



A golden road! You can't see it very clearly in the photograph, but these rocks were actually speckled with pyrites. Fool's Gold...



Up and up and up... Have you noticed there seem to be an awful lot of steps?



A giant pitcher plant. We see quite a few of them on the way up. And lots and lots of steps.



We're nearing the edge of the treeline now, and starting to get clear views of the rocks above. Oh, and more steps.



The first day's climb was advertised as being "four-to-six hours". Looks like it will be six hours for us. People passing us on their way down are telling us it's not long to go, but, my, there are a lot of steps.



Through the trees, we get tantalising glimpses of what lies in store for us at the top. (And a lot of steps.)



An unexpected fairy glade. (With different shaped steps.)



Taking another breather. We're barely making twenty metres between stops now. At least there are plenty of places to rest on the steps.



The flora in the higher regions is quite amazing. (And did I mention the steps?)









We're nearing the huts we'll stay in overnight now. It's been a long, long climb and our legs are shot. Just a few more steps...



There! That big building is Laban Rata, the largest of the lodges. It's at 3270 metres, so we've gone up 1400 metres in just under six hours. Which is slower than average, but still enough to put us into the "high" risk category for altitude sickness.



And where's ours? Oh, just over there, up those steps...



After signing in, we learn that dinner will be served back down those same steps, in Laban Rata, where we have an all-you-can-eat buffet in the clouds.



And afterwards, you guessed it, back up those steps to get some sleep. At least all this stair climbing will keep us from getting lazy. We go to bed as soon as we can, because we're getting up at 2am for our attempt on the summit. And then the fun will really start.



Read Part Two here.

Comments

[asakiyume.livejournal.com]

Wow, I feel breathless just looking at the pictures. I don't think I'd be able to do it! I think I could feel hydrogen bubbles forming in my blood, or whatever it is that happens as you climb up. (That's the bends, isn't it. Not the same as altitude sickness. What is it that happens to the body to give altitude sickness?) I'm just sure I'd never train intensively enough!

But wow the sights! The fern forest, and the pitcher plant that looks hand stitched! And the golden road! Just amazing.

... Did you take medicine for altitude sickness?

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

We all took acetazolamide, in varying doses, as a preventative measure. This may have been counter productive though, since one of the side-effects is additional loss of aerobic endurance. Another side effect was that it worked as a diuretic, which made it a bit hard to get a good night's sleep.

Yes, altitude sickness is different from the bends. It's due to the lower air pressure and corresponding lack of oxygen (plus dehydration as liquids evaporate faster under lower pressure). They say any with "average" fitness can climb the mountain (as long as you don't get altitude sickness), but your level of enjoyment will vary quite a lot based on your level of fitness.

[heleninwales.livejournal.com]

Wow! 3270 metres!? I was struggling in Boulder, Colorado when I tried to climb the mountain behind the town and had to give up and that would be less than 2000 metres.

The climb looks amazing though, especially the way the vegetation changes as you ascended.

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

We were short of breath pretty much right from the start. Fortunately, we managed to adapt as we went along. It was quite amazing how much easier it was to breath at the same heights on the way down,

[88greenthumb.livejournal.com]

Wow! So awesome and exciting! Hats off to you for making it to the top! How many days did you spend climbing up and back down?! I would love to do this just for the beautiful views, but I'll be huffing and puffing and panting like crazy that I will likely pass out!

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

It was two days up and down. Although when elite athletes are doing the annual climbathon, they can go nearly all the way up and down in just over two hours. Numbers are strictly limited and you have to book many months in advance. Every at the mountain lodges needs to be carried up on foot - food, water, timber, plumping. We think they probably even carried the dirty linen down by porter too.

[mnfaure.livejournal.com]

My legs hurt just thinking about all those steps, much less climbing them! You guys are rock stars. Did you feel you had trained enough beforehand. I imagine the lack of oxygen the biggest obstacle to overcome, trained or not...

I saw your posts in the wrong order and so was doubly impressed by the lush vegetation on the lower slops. Gorgeous. :D

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

I think my general fitness was about right (bearing in mind that I'll run 42 kms in a typical week). Hsiu Lin was probably a bit underprepared, but to her immense credit, she still made it. The thin air, possibly combined with the acetazolamide, really made things slow though. It was amazing how much easier it was on the way down.

[wongkk.livejournal.com]

Great post! You did so well with the climb and thin air. So many steps of different colours! The photos are lovely - great pitcher plant, stone path/steps and beautiful views from the height of the mountain. Congratulations on the successful expedition!

[khiemtran.livejournal.com]

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it... It was certainly an amazing experience!